All about the soondae experience

I was scrolling through Instagram recently and came upon a post asking viewers which of a few weird foods of Korea they would be willing to try. The list featured soondae (blood sausage), beondegi (silkworm larvae), live octopus and a fourth item I can’t remember.

Of the four, blood sausage and silkworms seemed to be the most palatable. Octopus was a no-go because I’d already tried live baby abalone and didn’t like the feeling of killing something with my teeth.

Just a few days later, I ended up at the newly opened Moobongri Soondae & BBQ restaurant that moved into the space formerly occupied by Seoul Garden restaurant. I was expecting a typical full Korean restaurant experience, with the usual complement of meat dishes, spicy stews and grilled fish in addition to a sampling of soondae. Surprise, surprise! Soondae was just about the only thing on the menu. As a result, dozens of groups expecting to find the yakiniku offered by the restaurant’s predecessor could be seen walking in then out when they learned of the menu change.

One couple near me, seated before they learned what was on the menu, whined, “Is there anything we can eat?” They were directed to the few things on the menu that were not soondae: kalbitang or beef rib soup ($22.99), pork belly soup ($18.99) and pork neck soup ($18.99).

Since opening a few months ago, the restaurant’s managers from Los Angeles were learning the hard way that Hawaii diners are not particularly adventurous. (Since my first visit, yakiniku that is not normally part of the franchise experience has been added to the menu to address local demand.)

Prior to my first visit, I knew something was strange when I called to make a reservation and was immediately told, “We don’t have barbecue. Look at the menu before you come.”

“OK,” I said.

“Look at the menu,” the man on the other end repeated with a sense of duress and urgency.

“I will!” I said, and upon hanging up thought, “Sheesh, what could be wrong with the menu?”

I never did look at it and was shocked to see it really was almost all soondae, but was relieved to know that, for me, it could just be a side to the kalbitang.

The best way to enjoy the soondae experience here is to gather a big group of friends over a combination soondae hotpot ($54.99) and/or combination soondae plate ($49.99). It’s a lot of food but you can always take home the leftovers.

The plate features two kinds of soondae, one of the blood sausages also stuffed with pork and vegetables, and the other with cellophane noodles, giving them different textures. The pork-and-vegetable sausage had the crunchy texture of a spring roll, while the other had a more squishy, chewy consistency because of the soft noodles. The platter is topped with pork intestines.

Where blood sausage tends to have an iron-rich, metallic taste to it, the house sausages offered here are surprisingly mild, definitely created to suit a more Western than Korean palate.

In a just-can’t-win situation, the restaurant has also had to contend with Koreans’ expectations. And because soondae is an inexpensive street food in South Korea, some Korean online reviewers have balked about the high prices. I think prices are fair in a share situation as both the combo items ordered easily fed five people and could have fed two more.

I was more smitten by the hotpot in which soondae was just a supporting player among many ingredients such as bell peppers, enoki mushrooms and sliced pork heart in a delicious spicy broth.

In contrast to the excitement of the spicy hotpot, kalbitang ($22.99) had a mellow, calming effect with its clear broth and clean beef flavor. It was so good we ordered seconds and one member of our party ordered a third portion to-go.

The communal experience was so enjoyable, we vowed to return in a few weeks when they were ready to launch their barbecue offerings.

When ordering barbecue, diners have the option of cooking on the usual stainless steel grill top or a stone grill. Although the menu offers different meat selections with each option, in reality, the meat can be cooked on either surface, and it’s best to stick with one. We thought we had to swap out the grill for the different meat cuts but that would have ended up being too awkward.

The stone grill is placed over the gas apparatus at the center of the table and it’s not as perfect a fit as the steel plate. On the plus side, the stone surface is said to maintain an even heat that prevents meat from burning, and it requires no added oil to prevent sticking.

On the short list of meat offerings are marinated short ribs ($39.95), brisket ($32.95), beef tongue ($39.95), rib-eye bulgogi ($32.95), pork bulgogi ($25.95) and chicken ($23.95). Specialty selections are wagyu brisket ($32.99), pork jowl ($29.99), Mugifuji (Canadian) pork belly ($29.99) and pork collar ($29.99).

After an awkward setup period, I did enjoy the stone grill experience, which offered ample space to spread out the juicy wang kalbi (short ribs). Staffers were on hand to help cut up the meat, which gave me reason for gratitude. The uncoordinated simply cannot handle the pressure of manipulating tongs and scissors over extreme heat.

I also enjoyed the thin slices of wagyu brisket. As for the thick slab of Mugifuji pork belly, I would have preferred the usual thin-cut strips of meat. The cut took a while to cook through and turned out somewhat dry and chewy. The thin slices can also dry out, but the appeal is the crunchy bacon-like texture of the fat that is missing with the thicker cut.

To ease yourself into the soondae experience, you can order a small side order of the blood sausages ($9.99) to go with your grill items.

I’m just hoping the people who walked out on the restaurant a few weeks ago give it a second try, as it seems to have learned quickly what locals like.

Moobongri Soondae & BBQ

1679 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu
Food: ****
Service: ***
Ambiance: ***
Value: ***½
Call: 808-312-1877
HOURS: 11 A.M.-9 P.M. DAILY
PRICES: About $65-$85 for two without alcohol

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).